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I spent my weekend hiding from the rain and bending wire. I used sketches to work out the basic shapes, but only pliers and wire could test whether a design would work in the 3-D world. My artistic labors were fruitful, leaving me close to a new chain design but a little bit further away from getting my laundry done!
Speaking the Language of Wire
It's important to know the vocabulary when learning any new skills. Here are a few basic wire terms to help you speak the language of wire.
 Gauge is the measurement of a wire's thickness and is the standard form of measurement. Most beaders including those whose designs are included in Simply Beads magazine use 16- to 28-gauge wire. The larger the number of the gauge measurement, the smaller the wire. For example, 16-gauge is quite heavy and 28-gauge is more like heavy thread.
Each gauge of wire has a slightly different feel, as do different types of wire. Aluminum and copper wires are very soft. Sterling and gold-filled wires are slightly harder but very malleable. Brass wire is a bit stiff, and steel wire is very hard. Copper is perfect for practicing your wire skills; it is inexpensive, readily available and feels much like sterling or gold-filled wire. It also adds a rich color to jewelry. Most craft wire is copper or brass-based. Colored wire is beautiful and versatile but can be a tough to work with because it's slippery and the coating can be easily scratched or marred.
Hardness, or "temper," refers to the stiffness of wire. Soft (sometimes referred to as "dead-soft" wire is the easiest to work with and can tolerate a great deal of bending and manipulation. It can be shaped easily, even without tools, but does not hold its shape well. Heavier gauges, such as 16- or 18-gauge, have an inherent hardness due to their large diameter, so they hold their shape well once formed.
 Half-hard temper works best for wrapping wire from 22- to 26-gauge. Half-hard wire feels slightly springy when handled and holds its shape well once formed. To harden soft wire, pull it through nylon jaw pliers 2 or 3 times. Hammering with a plastic or rawhide mallet is a great way to stiffen clasps or ear wires without changing their shape. Too much bending, pulling or hammering can harden or break the wire.
Hard wire has limited applications for most beaders. It is mainly used in manufactured pieces such as clasps, headpins or ear wires. Machines can easily bend hard wire, but people can also bend it using good tools and techniques.
Teaching wire techniques to hundreds of students has left me with a philosophy of honesty. Wire takes practice. It isn't tough to learn, but repetition of skills makes a big difference. Using simple hand tools, you can form wire into fantastic jewelry that will last.
If you have any wire questions or tips that you'd like to share with other readers, please use the feedback link at the bottom of this newsletter.
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I love the thought of using Kato Clay to make materials that are no longer available. How do you make ivory using the clay? And do you have any ideas what to do with the ivory clay once it's made?
- Judy
A. There are many imitative recipes -- ivory is a long-standing favorite! Kim Cavender shared her recipe with us as well as two designs that use the ivory once you've made it.
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Reader Feedback: Crimping Right or Wrong
Our new step-by-step photo instructions for crimping garnered some great feedback from readers that I'd like to share.
"I was surprised to see the latest e-mail newsletter that stated we've been crimping 'wrong'! I have been doing it the way it is shown in photos. My friend is an electronic's technician, and he gave me my very first crimp pliers, as it was difficult to buy any here in Australia. He taught me how to crimp and that's how I have done it ever since!"
-Maria Campbell
"I tried the correct method you had for using crimping pliers. After doing a few crimps this way, I was stunned by how well this method works! I have been using crimps for 5 years now, and this tip really works. Thank you."
-Darlene
"All I can say is WOW! Crimping this new way makes my pieces look much better and neater. A big thanks to Margot Potter for getting this right."
-Gail Robinson
Thanks again to Margot Potter for sharing this important information.
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 Copper Dreams
Design by Margot Potter
Copper is accented with sea blue crystals in this stunning woven bracelet.
Materials
- 13 (6mm) crystal copper Swarovski crystal round beads
- 6mm Swarovski crystal rondelles: 6 crystal golden shadow, 9 Pacific opal, 2 crystal copper
- 4 copper open heart charms
- 6 (5mm) copper jump rings
- 2 copper crimp covers
- 2 (1.3mm) copper crimp tubes
- Copper lobster-claw clasp
- 6 1/2 inches 20-gauge copper craft wire
- 2 (10-inch) lengths copper .018-inch-diameter 7-strand nylon-coated flexible beading wire
- Round-nose pliers
- 2 pairs chain-nose pliers
- Nylon-jaw pliers
- Crimp pliers
- Jumbo crimp pliers
- Flush cutters
Finished Size
7 inches (including clasp), plus a 1-inch extender chain
Instructions
| 1) |
For coil charm, cut a 2 1/2-inch length of 20-gauge wire. Referring to Fig. 1, use round-nose pliers to form a small loop at one end of wire; use thumb and forefinger to compress the wire, wrapping it into a coil. Use nylon-jaw pliers to keep wire flat while continuing to form the coil. Stop wrapping wire when there is 1/4 inch left. Bend wire upward at a 90-degree angle from top of coil. Form a small loop at wire end. Use chain-nose pliers to bend loop so it can be threaded side to side with a jump ring. Set aside. |
| 2) |
Form a small loop at one end of a 1-inch length of 20-gauge wire. String a Pacific opal rondelle and use round-nose pliers to form a wrapped loop above rondelle. Trim excess wire. Repeat three times, once with a Pacific opal rondelle and twice with crystal copper rondelles. Set aside. |
| 3) |
Hold both lengths of beading wire together and string a crimp tube 1/2 inch from end; insert wire ends through jump ring and back through crimp tube, keeping wires uncrossed inside tube and using chain-nose pliers to pull wires through tube, making sure to not pull too tight. Use crimp pliers to flatten and fold the crimp tube. |
| 4) |
Attach a crimp cover over crimp tube, using jumbo crimp tool to fold cover over into a smooth bead. |
| 5) |
With wires together, string a Pacific opal rondelle. String a crystal copper round on only the right wire. Thread both wires through a crystal golden shadow rondelle. String a crystal copper round on only the left wire. |
| 6) |
Repeat step 5 five times. Thread both wires through a Pacific opal rondelle. String a copper crystal rondelle on only the right wire. |
| 7) |
Thread both wires through a crimp tube; insert wires through clasp and back through crimp tube. Flatten and fold the crimp tube. Trim excess wire. Repeat step 4. |
| 8) |
Open a jump ring and slide on a heart charm and a crystal golden shadow charm from step 2; attach jump ring to jump ring on bracelet; close ring. |
| 9) |
Open another jump ring and slide on a heart charm and a Pacific opal charm; attach this jump ring to previous jump ring, threading the jump ring between the charms on previous ring. Add two additional jump rings in the same manner, alternating between golden shadow charm and Pacific opal charm. Open remaining jump ring and slide on coil charm from step 1; attach ring to last jump ring. |
| 10) |
Check back through jump rings, ensuring they are closed. |
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Source: Crystal beads from Swarovski North America; copper wire and findings from Beadalon.
Copyright © January 2008 Simply Beads magazine. All rights reserved.
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Beads Without Boundaries
"I love the e-mails you send to me, but I am frustrated that I cannot purchase your magazine here in Australia. I know Australia is a long way away, but we love our crafts, too!"
-Rosemary Huggins
I receive e-mails regularly from Australian beaders looking for supplies or magazines. No matter where you live, you can go to e-PatternsCentral.com and download issues of Simply Beads. Go to the Beading tab and then click on the e-Magazine Newsstand link on the left column and you can buy any issue from the last two years.
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